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An article to ALWAYS refer to while sewing your suit
***How Riding Habits Should Fit***
Sewing Patterns
Jean Hardy Patterns - Coat and Kentucky Jodhpurs
Avaliable from Hartmeyers.com
Kwik Sew Women's Vest Pattern #3128 View A
(from the description and picture it looks more correct for showing than the commerical suit patterns)
Google for purchase location
Basic Advice on Sewing with Patterns
These suggestions are working from Jean Hardy Patterns for Women
Coat
- Make collar lapels about 1/2 inch narrower
- Make an effort to fit collar to lay snuggly around neck
- Locate waist on wearer and make adjustments as needed in pattern (pattern places coat button closure too high on majority
of wearers)
- When placing closure button check to make sure lapel can be pinned under pocket
- Use Woolen Felt underlay beneath lapel
- Make sure coat length is correct - pattern will either make it much too short or too long
- Use color matching covered hook and eye closures to close the coat but use matching plastic (non-covered) buttons
on the top for a traditional look (no button holes)
Helpful Tips for making a quality suit - explains reinforcing suit lapels with examples. Also has advice on suit fabric
Jodhpur Pants
- Shaping pants is very difficult
- Make sure the leg fits well and the bottom of pant is angled and rounded
- Add a flap of fabric and 2 buttons for tie downs instead of 1 button
- Make a hem thats about 2 inches long (botton of rim of pants to seam) with at least 3 inches of extra fabric to give
body and weight to pant so its not so floppy
Choosing Fabric
An article to help you choose your suit colors
***Equitation Suit Colors***
Saddle Seat Apparel Fabric Choice - Blue Ribbon Diva
Best fabric choice for the Coat and Pants is Wool. It breathes, is strong, and lays best. Polyester
is too "shiny" and won't lay right once finished.
For the lining of the coat and back of vest look for lining with a snowflake pattern in the SAME color as your coat.
It is the traditional and classic choice for lining.
- Avoid "wooly" fabric as it tends to "pill" and won't hold up as well
- Find "Wool Suiting" or "Worsted Wool"
- "Worsted Wool" is smoother
- Try Outlet Places for overrun of real suit fabric from tailors
- Use Ultrasuede for knee patches
For vests you can use whatever fabric you feel is best for your outfit and taste
- If using a thinner fabric for vests include an interface
- Remember the back side of the vest is just snowflake lining so you can spring for more expensive fabric if you'd like
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